Carataunas

Perched on the hillside above Bayacas at an altitude of 800m, is the village of Carataunas. It is amusing but all the same true, that this tiny village is a borough in its own right albeit the smallest in the region. Its total area is less than 5km2 and the number of its inhabitants just below 200. It seems that its name derives from the Arabic Caratamuz, meaning "the tranquil place".

I saw Carataunas even before setting eyes on La Panoramica, for it was our first stop on the way to see The Hill. Indeed it is at Carataunas that Ole had bought his first Alpujarran property, rebuilt the existing ruin and called it "Cortijo Las Monjas" after the crystal clear spring then flowing at all times at the entrance of the property. It had the most enchanting orange & olive grove and each time he took us there, it was the exotic and fresh smell of orange and lemon blossoms that welcomed us. The views from the swimming pool at the back of the cortijo were to die for.

Ole, who everyone called affectionately don Federico, was invited by the Ayuntamiento to become one of its councillors, a sign that he had truly been accepted as part of the community. Cortijo Las Monjas became the scene of festivities where, after every fiesta, the whole village gathered for more wine and Frikadeller (traditional Danish meatballs) prepared by doña Britta, the lady of the house. These parties often went on till sunrise. Once, the alcalde of the time got so drunk, he had to be carried up the steep dirt track to his house in the village on a wheelbarrow.

Maybe the mayors of Carataunas are deemed to be entertaining. In the last local elections none of the two contestants got the majority vote required. Instead of holding another election, the new alcalde was chosen by the flip of a 20c coin.

Social life in Carataunas revolves around its only bar/restaurant, Venta el Venao, at the entrance of the village. It gets its name from the Spanish word "venado" (Venao in Andalú) or "deer". It is run by a brother and sister, María and José López. José's hobby is breeding deer and who best to cook it but the charming María? On a warm Summer's evening there is no better place to eat than their terrace, overlooking the Orgiva Valley with views extending all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.

In the Winter, they have a huge open fireplace in the bar/diner and that's where I first met their mother and would sit with her while I had my meal to chat about Barcelona where the rest of the family was and of La Alpujarra of her youth. María doted on her mother. Each time she would bring me one of the dishes I had ordered, she would give her, not a peck, but a real solid kiss on the cheek. There is always fresh flowers on the bar and on the tables because, María, apart from being a very good cook she also has green fingers. The only place I saw hot chillies grown was on the terrace of Venta el Venao. Mrs López died some 4 years ago, and Maria still wears black, the sign of mourning.

Two residential estates are being built in Carataunas, changing the aspect and the atmosphere of the village. Maybe at some future "pleno", they should consider changing its name.







Photo 1, Carataunas Landscape taken by myself
Photo 2, Cortijo Las Monjas taken by myself
Photo 3, Venta El Venao taken by myself
Photo 4, On the outskirts of Carataunas By Dr Friedrich Hach