Bayacas

As you head out of Orgiva towards the higher villages of La Alpujarra, the second exit is that which leads down to and ends in Bayacas, one of the smallest villages of the area. Officially it is considered a district of Orgiva. It is unspoilt and stunningly beautiful, surrounded by mountains with the river "Rio Chico" flowing through its midst, dividing it in two. It is the Paris of La Alpujarra, we say jokingly, with its Rive Gauche and Rive Droite!.

Unlike Paris, Bayacas has no shops, no bars and no restaurants. Its only claim to fame is one of the oldest churches in La Alpujarra, not exactly Notre Dame, but a wonderful example of the Mudéjar style of architecture. First built in 1550, it is dedicated to San Sebastian.

On the outskirts of the village, in the part known as Poyo de Dios, is located the studio and shop of one of the best ceramists of the region, Angel Vera, where I bought my first serious piece of Spanish pottery.


For me, however, Bayacas is the Hidalgo family, at its head Paco, otherwise known as "Paco Teka". Almost everyone in La Alpujarra, has what is called an "apodo", a sort of nickname that becomes so widely used that most people forget the real name of the person. The Hidalgo family had moved to Granada because of Paco's work, but until his retirement, hardly a weekend passed without them visiting the village. Paco's passion is horses and you often come across him riding along the river. His other passion is El Rocio, the second most important pilgrimage in Spain after Santiago de Compostela and undoubtedly the most romantic and exotic of all. La Virgen del Rocio is affectionately called La Blanca Paloma.
The Hidalgos have their own carriola (La Bayaquera), which is one of the group of caravans that form the convoy of the hermandad of Granada. They also have their own horse-drawn carriage for the evening pomenades.

One year, with typical Andalusian hospitality, they invited me to join them for the pilgrimage. I had been to the Rocío twice before, but experiencing it with a family Rociera rather than a group of "Guiris" (foreigners), gave it a whole new dimension: I did the all the Camino. I walked over 19km in sand dunes behind the Sinpecao. I was baptised by the Hermano mayor in the river that I crossed on foot gypsy dress, boots and all. I was given a Rociera name: "La Amapola del Rocio". What a proud day for me! I felt part of my adoptive country and with the help of the Hidalgo's beautiful eldest daughter, Inma, I made a fool of myself and joined full-heartedly in dancing and even singing Sevillanas. A right Andalú...




Photo 1, Bayacas, Rive Gauche
Photo 2, Hiam & Paco Teka, The Rocieros!
Photo 3, Hiam & Florence with the Hermandad del Rocío de Granada by Bob Man